During a recent event celebrating Foot Locker’s 50th anniversary in New York City, it was hard to imagine that the legacy sneaker chain was appearing on bankruptcy watch lists as recently as March.

Grammy-nominated rapper Coi Leray was there to celebrate the company with a special performance of her hit song “Players” as influencers, journalists and handpicked members of the company’s revamped loyalty program sipped on lavender margaritas and champagne cocktails.

Employees – and not just those in the glare of the company’s PR team – gushed about CEO Mary Dillon as Adidas staffers celebrated the company’s new store design, which showcases individual brands instead of mixing them on nondescript shoe walls. 

Foot Locker turns 50 while on a bit of an upswing two years into Dillon’s tenure as CEO. Last month, it released fiscal second-quarter results and full-year guidance that beat expectations, as comparable sales grew for the first time in six quarters.

As Foot Locker revamps its sprawling store footprint, and perhaps benefits from some good timing, it’s making strides in winning back its critical brand partners like Nike and Adidas, the latter of which co-hosted the Monday night party and helped secure Leray’s performance. 

“Our last quarter was a really good indication that the hard work that we’ve been putting into the Lace Up plan is working, and that makes me feel really, really great, because I really see the next 50 years of growth for Foot Locker and our future,” Dillon told CNBC in an interview, referencing the company’s turnaround plan. “I really think that there’s layers of category growth that we can drive by just making sneakers that much more inclusive, that much more fun, that much more easy to access.”

But as Foot Locker stares down the next 50 years, the company is still at a crossroads and must answer some fundamental questions: can it once again be the market leader in sneakers, and can it not just survive, but thrive, as brands rely less and less on wholesalers?

“With the combination of more direct to consumer from the brands, the deepening of specialists like [Dick’s Sporting Goods], the incursion of JD Sports, Foot Locker still looks risky,” said Neil Saunders, a retail analyst and managing director of GlobalData. “In some ways, they’re just a sort of distributor of everyone else’s products.”

Dick’s has a big private-label business and sells other categories like sporting goods, while JD Sports has strong loyalty programs and a robust fashion business, he said.

“Whereas Foot Locker looks vulnerable because it just doesn’t have all these other strings to its bows,” said Saunders. “The truth is that although they’re getting better, there is still this question: Do we need this specialist sneaker retailer?” 

Foot Locker can be traced back to the legendary retailer Frank Winfield Woolworth, whose namesake company branched into footwear in the 1960s and later opened the first Foot Locker in City of Industry, California, in September 1974. 

By the turn of the century, it was the world’s largest retailer of athletic footwear and apparel, with a 20% market share in the U.S., according to a 2002 Forbes report. It was the primary place to buy Nike sneakers and was responsible for 26% to 28% of Nike’s total domestic revenue. Nike accounted for more than half of Foot Locker’s total sales at the time.

“It was a simpler retail world. I think in the years that they were initially really experiencing strong growth, it was as simple as being in the mall, having a large mall footprint and having the right brands and they had that footprint,” said Janine Stichter, a retail analyst and managing director at BTIG, who has been covering the retail industry since 2008. “They were the No. 1 partner of Nike. Nike, at the time, was strong and growing, and I think they were really viewed as like the destination in an environment that was a lot less competitive.” 

When Foot Locker’s chief commercial officer, Frank Bracken, joined the company in 2010, the retailer’s relationship with Nike was poised to get even stronger. By the end of the decade, 75% of the products Foot Locker sold were from Nike.

“This was [pre-direct-to-consumer], Foot Locker was definitely ‘most favored nations’ with most of our brand partners at that time, Nike was about to go on a pretty epic run alongside Jordan, and so I actually joined at a really good time,” Bracken said in an interview.

Bracken recalled how from 2012 to about 2018, Foot Locker’s stock rose to record highs as revenue grew at a mid-to-high single-digit compound annual growth rate. But as the 2020s neared, the company got “complacent” and began taking its position as the market leader in sneakers “for granted,” said Bracken. 

“[We] got some weak signals about where the industry was headed, from our partners and from competition, and then Covid, you know, paralyzed everybody momentarily and I think we lost some time, candidly, during Covid,” he said. “Competition used it as an opportunity to invest in technology and capability and the business, and maybe we probably stood a little bit too still at that point in time.” 

As consumers moved online and away from malls, Foot Locker did too little to update its e-commerce capabilities and its real estate footprint, said Bracken. At the same time, competitors were getting bigger and savvier, adjusting their real estate strategies as malls across America sputtered and died. 

In North America, the company let its banners — Foot Locker, Footaction and Champs Sports — overlap too heavily with each other in terms of assortment, location and marketing, and brands “started to take note of that,” said Bracken.

At the end of 2021, Foot Locker was winding down its Footaction business and had acquired WSS – an off-mall athletic apparel retailer that caters to the Hispanic community – to help differentiate itself from competitors.

But by then, it was too late.

Nike, carrying out a new strategy to cut off wholesalers and sell directly to consumers through its own websites and stores, had started reducing the number of sneakers it was selling to Foot Locker, the company said on an earnings call in February 2022. It chose instead to reserve its best products for Foot Locker’s primary competitors: Dick’s and JD Sports. 

For a company that relied almost exclusively on Nike, the change was devastating and posed an existential threat. By the end of fiscal 2022, comparable sales had fallen 7.2% in North America. The declines would only mount in the quarters to come. 

When Dillon, the former CEO of Ulta Beauty, took the helm of Foot Locker in September 2022, Wall Street breathed a collective sigh of relief. Highly regarded among peers, Dillon was known for her ability to win over brands, and appeared to have the necessary chops to turn Foot Locker around. 

While Foot Locker’s fiscal 2023 turned out worse than it originally anticipated, the company is seeing some of its turnaround efforts start to take hold. While Nike is still its biggest partner, it’s focusing more on other brands, such as upstarts like Hoka and On and legacy incumbents like Birkenstock and Ugg.  

As Foot Locker looks ahead to the next 50 years, its ability to survive is still up for debate. Nike is at a low point and is cozying back up to the wholesale partners, but when it rebounds, will it cut off those retailers once again? 

Absent a robust private-label business, Foot Locker’s success is also highly dependent on the performance of its brand partners, which leaves it with less control over its own destiny than other retailers that have recently made big comebacks, such as Abercrombie & Fitch. 

If Nike has a major product launch, it can be a boon for Foot Locker’s sales, but if innovation dries up, Foot Locker will suffer. It has found itself in a similar quandary facing other multi-brand retailers, such as Macy’s, which has also struggled to find itself in a post-mall world. 

When asked if Foot Locker can survive another 50 years, GlobalData’s Saunders said the company is the “most at risk of extinction” of its peers. Stichter disagreed. 

“One thing we’ve learned is that consumers really do want a multi-brand experience. There are people who go to Nike.com or Adidas.com but people really like having that selection, having the service,” said Stichter. “So there is a reason for a concept like Foot Locker to exist. I think it all just depends on, can they execute well and be one of the preferred places for consumers who are looking for choice.”